Driving in Ireland is like driving in Hebrew - it is all backwards and ahoo. But needs must and all that. By the time I get to Ballymaloe I only go over to the left side of the car to get in about half the time, and have started the wrong way down a road maybe twice? So that is progress.
I know you’re all here for the cooking school content but bear with through some highlights of Dublin and Cork. Bill Laskin loves a good museum and particularly a good archeological museum, which Dublin has and which we stumble through after arriving. I am briefly revived by the stunning gold collars and cuffs made by Iron Age inhabitants of this island, always identified by the “hoard” in which they were found. The Dooyork Hoard, the Coggalbeg Hoard, and so on. Can you imagine, you’re just plowing along one day and all of a sudden up pops a pile o’ gold. I mean, is that so Irish? There was probably a rainbow! I think I’ve found my new fashion statement, and will keep an eye out for hoards around here.
This museum also boasts a fine collection of bog people, that is, bits that once were people thousands of years ago, then brutally murdered and buried in peat bogs. They don’t really look human, but in fact they are, all leathery and with many bits missing. The descriptions of their lives, deaths, and current status (extremely dead) are quite graphic. Here’s what happened to one poor fellow, I’ll spare you the actual image.
Puts one in mind of Brave Sir Robin.
Dublin, and to only a slightly lesser degree Cork, are full of roving bands of young people, seeking drink, and in my addled state, slightly terrifying. I take solace in food, obvs, at The Winding Stair in Dublin and The Glass Curtain in Cork, where I had a possibly life-changing cocktail. Also where everyone at the bar figured out I was going to Ballymaloe because the man next to Bill wished me good luck as he left (how did he know?!) and the gal on my left turned out to be here in the course the next day.
I’m pleased to report that my driving has now been approved by an actual English person, who I kept alive on a trip to the beach and the store - but for next time. I’ll leave you with a couple of Cork images because I have to get dressed now for first day in the kitchen 😬!!!!!
oh my... this museum sounds so fascinating.. Theo and Nicolas would just love it!! So glad you're getting the hang of driving British!
Please come home immediately and write my Substack for Friday. Wish I had your lightness of touch. Now I at least know how I don't want to die, even if just yesterday I was on a Zoom with my state senator in a group discussion about us wanting the right to decide how and when we do die. Onward, my friend.